Last week we returned from Morelia, Mexico where we attended the third annual Feria Mundial de Turismo Cultural, the World Cultural Tourism Fair and trade show. There, we met with Mexican tour operators and representatives from all of the states of Mexico as well as representatives of the federal government.
Looking for more unique destinations to offer our California Native guests, we visited several colonial cities which have been designated Pueblos Magicos, magic towns. These towns have been chosen for their natural beauty, cultural riches, and historical relevance and are said to offer visitors a “magical experience.” Among those we visited were Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende, Pátzcuaro, Cuitzeo and Santa Clara del Cobre.
California Native's Ellen Klein strolls along the street in Guanajuato, Mexico. Don Quixote greets visitors at the Cervantes Museum in Guanajuato, Mexico. Mexico's president, Felipe Calderon, addresses attendees at World Travel Fair. California Native president, Lee Klein, discusses travel with Mexico's Minister of Tourism Gloria Guevara at World Travel Fair in Morelia, Mexico.
Last Christmas we attended a candelaria and bell-ringing event at the Centinella Adobe, an historical Spanish adobe located a few miles from The California Native. When we met the docent, Betty Keel, an attractive woman in her 80’s, she recalled having traveled on a back-packing trip with The California Native down to the bottom of Copper Canyon back in 1993. A few months later she came over to our office with her sister-in-law and hiking companion on the trip, Bee Jay Keel. They brought us a scrapbook with photos, made by the third guest on the trek, Barbara Boone.
We really enjoyed visiting with these delightful adventurous women and reminiscing about the many years we’ve been conducting tours in this wonderfully remote part of Mexico’s Sierra Madre mountains. The "three caballeras" in the small town of Urique in the bottom of Copper Canyon. Loading up the burro for the days journey. Everything tastes better in camp.
Last week I attended ATMEX, the Adventure Travel Event in the State of Veracruz, Mexico. It was a great opportunity to meet with adventure tour providers in Mexico and lay the groundwork for future partnerships to develop California Native tours to this beautiful region. We joined with Mexico Verde Expeditions and rafted down the Rio Antigua, zip-lined and mountain biked in the rainforest nearby the village of Jolcomulco. The State of Veracruz offers a plethora of historic and cultural destinations in addition to its wonderful opportunities for outdoor recreation. Please let me know if you are interested in joining us on future tours to the historic and wildly scenic State of Veracruz. California Native President Lee Klein and Mexico's Minister of Tourism Gloria Guevara at ATMEX. White water rafting on Mexico's Rio Antigua with Mexico Verde Expeditions. California Native founder Lee Klein is the guy in front wearing sunglasses.
Some people like to read about the places in the world that they are planning on visiting while other folks prefer to be armchair travelers and visit these places vicariously in the comfort of their homes. What ever is your preference here are our recommendations for good reading materials on one of our favorite destinations: Mexico’s Copper Canyon.
Topping off our list is The Copper Canyon Companion. (We’re probably a bit prejudiced when it comes to this book since we wrote it.)
The Copper Canyon Companion was written by the California Native staff as a reference for travelers to this unique destination. In its pages you will meet the Tarahumara Indians, who have lived in the remote mountain area for centuries. California Native’s guides share with you their personal memories and affection for these proud people who refused to be conquered by both the Spaniards and the modern world. The book takes you back in time and introduces you to the 17th-century conquistadors and priests who conquered and colonized the area, and the 19th-century Americans who left their mark in these rugged canyons. The book includes lots of useful information for travelers, including a sightseer’s log of the Railroad. Considering a trip to Copper Canyon? The Copper Canyon Companion will travel with you and give you an in-depth look into this unique region of Mexico’s Sierra Madres. Been there already? It’s a great souvenir.
There’s a lot of good reading about Copper Canyon and some of our other destinations. In the coming months we’ll highlight more books—stay tuned!
Commander George Dewey sailed a U.S. sloop-of-war into Mexico’s Topolobampo Bay (shown today) on a surveying mission in 1874.
In 1874, Commander George Dewey sailed the United States sloop-of-war Narragansett into Mexico’s Topolobampo Bay. This was the same George Dewey who, twenty-five years later, defeated the Spanish Navy at Manila Bay after giving his famous command, “You may fire when you are ready, Gridley.”
The mission into Topolobampo was a peaceful one; its goal was to survey the Pacific Coast of Mexico and Baja California. The survey was ordered by President Grant at the behest of Albert Kimsey Owen, a former railroad surveyor and city planner, who had grandiose plans to develop a great harbor at Topolobampo.
Topolobampo, 15 miles west of Los Mochis, was the site of a 19th century utopian colony.
The harbor was only part of his plans. A railroad would be built from Topolobampo through Mexico and the United States to the Atlantic Ocean, facilitating trade between Europe, the United States, and the Far East. In addition, the area around Topolobampo would be populated with a utopian American colony.
Owen entered into an agreement to purchase 111,000 acres from a local hacienda owner and, with the help of Mexican president Porfirio Diaz, obtained concessions for the railroad and the colony. He then chartered a corporation, Credit Foncier, in New Jersey.
Albert Kimsey Owen (far left) had grandiose plans to develop a great harbor and a utopian colony at Topolobampo.
People buying stock in Credit Foncier received the right to join the colony, which was to be run communally and without the use of money. Work was to be assigned according to each person’s ability, with credits awarded for labor. Individual accumulation of wealth was prohibited. Eight hours of work, eight hours of sleep and eight hours of culture or entertainment were to make up the daily routine. Colonists would build, own, and operate the railroad, telegraphs, banks, and water supply. Capital gained would be reinvested in the colony’s infrastructure.
Credit Foncier clubs sprang up in the United States and Europe. In late 1886 the first 27 colonists arrived from California, and within a short time the population grew to 2,000.
Activities were directed by Owen. A team made daily trips to the Rio Fuerte to gather fresh water. Several towns were founded, connected by paved roads which permitted bicycle travel. Irrigation ditches were dug. A school was opened. Community theater grew, and an Academy of Sciences, with ties to the Smithsonian Institute, was founded.
Governed by the principles of order, industry and courtesy, the colonists attained modest economic success from fishing, farming and hunting. But the colony was growing much faster than Owen had envisioned. It became top heavy—too many planners and not enough workers.
Benjamin Johnson, only 25 years old when he arrived at the colony, challenged Owen’s leadership and focused the colonies efforts toward developing a single cash crop—sugar. He received a concession to build a canal from the Rio Fuerte to what became Los Mochis, then convinced the Mexican government to evict most of the Owen colonists.
Owen left, but continued to work on building the railroad, convincing Arthur E. Stilwell, an American railroad owner, to join with him. In 1900 the Kansas City, Mexico and Orient Railroad, precursor to the Chihuahua al Pacifico line, was chartered. The same year the colony was abandoned, having lasted fourteen years.
Today, travelers flying into Los Mochis to begin their tour of Copper Canyon look down on the huge bay and the endless agricultural land, laid out in neat rectangular plots. Little remains of the Owen Utopia, but the area’s rich farmlands, and the Copper Canyon railroad are the results of his vision.
We appreciate it when our guests share their stories with us and allow us to post them on our blog. Jim Whilden, from Bethleham, Pennsylvania, just returned from his Yucatan Adventure and had this to report:
Everything worked exactly as it should have. It is always great to be met at the airport by someone who is expecting you and can speak your language! When that occurs the trip is always great. Our guide even seemed glad to see us.
Guillermo, the guide, was superb! He not only explained the tourist sites but answered every question about Mexico’s government, areas, culture, language, etc. He helped us find things we read about in our guide books.
Uxmal, Valladolid, Campeche were wonderful. I loved clinbing the pyramid steps.
The trip really included everything—even specialty shops (ice cream in Merida). The hotels were wonderful and the food was great, especially in the small restaurants and cafes.
Where else can I travel with The California Native?
James G. Whildin, Jr.
It's a long way down from the top of a Mayan pyramid on a California Native adventure in Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula.The Nunnery Quadrangle, at the ruins of Uxmal, was named by a 16th-century Spanish priest because it reminded him of a convent in Spain. It may have been a military academy, royal school or palace complex.
California native founder, Lee Klein, at a Mayan ruin in Mexico's Yucatan. What a way to make a living.
This June we are celebrating our 30th Anniversary—30 years of leading fantastic trips to exotic destinations around the world.
This anniversary comes as a proud moment for our company’s founder, Lee Klein, who continues to scout new locations world-wide in search of new destinations for the active traveler. Klein, who holds an MBA in Management and a BS in International Marketing, spent more than two decades as a corporate manager and college professor until, in 1983, while climbing Ayer’s Rock in the Australian Outback, he decided to drop out of the corporate world, take off his suit and tie, and create an adventure travel company based on the lessons he taught his students on how to succeed in business: “keep the quality high, keep it affordable, and treat people the way you would like to be treated.”
Lee and Ellen Klein hiking on Patagonia's Perito Moreno Glacier.
The initial offering from The California Native was a tour billed as “The Other Los Angeles.” This day-long excursion traced the route of the San Andreas Fault from the Mojave Desert to the San Gabriel Mountains without ever leaving Los Angeles County. The tours became so popular that colleges in three California counties offered them as part of their community-education programs. From this, the company expanded its offerings to include tours to the Channel Islands, Death Valley, Yosemite, and other uniquely California destinations, as well as white-water rafting, ballooning, spelunking (caving), sailplane gliding, and other outdoor adventures. “My family has lived in Los Angeles for generations,” writes Klein in the company newsletter, “hence the name The California Native.”
Lee rappelling in Argentina. Hey, this is research.
Satisfying the growing client base led to the development of The California Native’s most popular destination—Mexico’s Copper Canyon. These escorted and independent tours feature the Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad (labeled as one of the most spectacular train rides in the western hemisphere) and highlight one of the most primitive indigenous cultures still subsisting in North America—the Tarahumara Indians. The California Native has become a leading source of information on this remote area and the company and it’s guides are known throughout the area for their work with the Tarahumara.
We appreciate it when our guests share their stories with us and allow us to post them on our blog. This last February David & Stephani White, from Wilsonville, Oregon, traveled with us on our Copper Canyon 8-day Independent Trip to the Canyon Bottom.
A young Tarahumara lady weaves a basket in Mexico's Copper Canyon.
My wife and I took the 8-day to the bottom trip in February of this year. I have been meaning to write , but ….
We had a wonderful time. The hotel in El Fuerte was terrific. The train trip was fascinating and beautiful. We really enjoyed Batopilas. Julio, our guide, was very knowledgeable, helpful, and fun to be with. We had a special treat: government aid distribution took place in Batopilas while we were there. The town square filled with over 200 Tarahumara people in their colorful clothing to receive drought-assistance. The hotel at Divisidero is stunning.
Thank you very much. It was a wonderful trip. Hopefully our enthusiastic recommendations to our friends will bring more business.
The Tarahumara Indians of Mexico’s Copper Canyon have long been acknowledged as the world’s greatest long distance runners. Their reputation was recently popularized by the May 2009 publication of Christopher McDougall’s book “Born to Run.” Much of the book focuses on the exploits of Micah True, an American runner who spent a good deal of time running with the Tarahumara and founding the Copper Canyon ultra-marathon race in the bottom of the canyon. In March of 2012 True, known in the canyons as “Caballo Blanco,” died on a solo run in New Mexico’s Gila Wilderness. As a tribute to True, we asked our good friend Doug Rhodes, an American outdoor adventurer, owner of Copper Canyon’s Paraiso del Oso Lodge and long-time resident of Mexico’s Sierra Madre, to share some of his memories of “Caballo Blanco” with us.
The following is a collection of a remembrances, sort of the way Micah was, all jumbled up.
Riding my mule towards Batopilas many years back, I encountered a goofy looking gringo wearing running shorts about the size of my bandanna. Bare-chested and running in the hot sun, my suspicions of this guy’s sanity were confirmed when he introduced himself as the “Caballo Blanco” (White Horse) and let out a whinny to prove it. Little did I realize then that guy and I would share trails, tears, and experiences and that we would become friends, indeed, more than friends.
One of my favorite recollections is when he asked to join us heading to our ranch at Los Alisos from Batopilas. We’d just finished a pack trip and had a small herd of horses to take across the mountains. Little did we realize that the lead horse would be this long-legged gringo known as Caballo Blanco. Now, our prize Appaloosa “Andy” is the Alpha or lead horse of the pack, a critter not known to take second place to anyone. Imagine our surprise when Andy fell in behind Micah, trotting down the trail with Micah in the lead, Andy right behind Micah and all the other horses trotting behind them. Micah kept looking back over his shoulder at the pack. When he zigged, the horses zigged as they did when he zagged or slowed down. It was an unbelievable sight; we nearly fell out of our saddles laughing.
Tarahumara runners in Mexico's Copper Canyon.
Another time Prospero Torres and I sponsored a faina to work on the trail above Los Alisos. (Note: A faina is a communal work project with food, fermented corn tesguino, and sometimes dancing after the work is finished.) Micah showed up and worked hard all day alongside the Tarahumara men. That night he ate as usual, like a horse. Then the dancing started, Micah could not quite get a hang on the traditional dancing so, as was his habit, he just did his own thing, a sort of 1920s type thing where one places their hands on their knees, brings the knees together and swaps positions of the hands over the knees. His dancing embarrassed the heck out of me but the Tarahumara laughed and loved it. Micah had a way of doing the strangest things and getting people to love him for it.
Back about 2001 or so, Micah got the wild idea of starting a marathon from Urique to Batopilas to get the Tarahumara people running again and, knowing him, just for the fun of it. Several of us helped him out as we could but most of the funding came out of Micah’s pocket and set the trend for future races. Micah never had much; material things seemed not to matter to him, but he shared what he had with friends and for what he believed in and he sure believed in his race.
The May 2009 publication of the book “Born to Run” catapulted both Micah and his race to virtual legendary status.
We appreciate it when our guests share their stories with us and allow us to post them on our blog. A few months ago Doris Beinhauer and Henry Adler from Rio de Janiero, Brazil, traveled with us on our Copper Canyon 11-day Independent Trip to the Canyon Bottom.
Hi Lee, Laurie and all the California Native team,
Just this week we have been talking with friends from Los Angeles about our trip to Copper Canyon and how much we enjoyed it. This little adventure turned out even better than I imagined.
We liked El Fuerte and the Hotel Torres del Fuerte. Chihuahua was also a real surprise.
Highlight of course was the trip from Creel to Batopilas. If we ever would visit again we would like to hike into the canyon, and if there is another time we shall surely contact you.
All the best from Rio de Janeiro,
Doris and Henry
In the town of Batopilas, at the bottom of Copper Canyon, the ruins of the Shepherd Hacienda are a reminder of the time when this town was one of the richest silver mining cities in the world.
The Copper Canyon Companion was written by the California Native staff as a reference for travelers to this unique destination. In its pages you will meet the Tarahumara Indians, who have lived in the remote mountain area for centuries. California Native’s guides share with you their personal memories and affection for these proud people who refused to be conquered by both the Spaniards and the modern world. The book takes you back in time and introduces you to the 17th-century conquistadors and priests who conquered and colonized the area, and the 19th-century Americans who left their mark in these rugged canyons. The book includes lots of useful information for travelers, including a sightseer’s log of the Railroad. Considering a trip to Copper Canyon? The Copper Canyon Companion will travel with you and give you an in-depth look into this unique region of Mexico’s Sierra Madres. Been there already? It’s a great souvenir.
